A Reputable Journal

This morning we woke up at almost 7AM (Atlantic Time) way late for us usually. I lost whatever unspoken contest we had, and got out of bed to turn on the heater! We like keeping the heat off overnight and sleeping in the cold rather than having the heat kick on and off.

We decided to drive to the beach to see if we could see more than last night, and we ended up finding a very nice board walk with some great views

From there it was only a 3 hour drive to our campground on Prince Edward Island. I can’t imaging what a zoo this place must be during the summer but at this time of the year it was very quiet. They had assigned us a pretty lousy campsite but the nice person checking us in just said to drive around and pick whatever spot we liked, and give her a call on the off chance that someone else was going to be here and had booked that site. Even with all of that it took us more than an hour to get situated. The sites were so uneven and once we got the camper in a decent position the steps would not go down far enough! In and out, up and down… Usually it takes us about 10 minutes to back in and level up. It took us almost an hour!

We had hoped to bike, but it was very cloudy and windy today so we didn’t have any desire to bike. So we drove the coastline, and around the area. Here’s a very attractive photo of the shoreline with a not so attractive picture of my shirt blowing in the wind.

A more interesting picture of the beach.

The National Park closed last week, and things have shut down very quickly. So most of the shops and attractions were closed for the season. Thankfully our dinner place for the evening was not one of them!

It was a four course dinner experience. You got a 1 pound lobster plus unlimited chowder and mussels and salad and desert. it was all very good and we had the nicest server who talked with us and answered all of our questions about the area. This place goes through 20,000 pounds of lobster and 90,000 pounds of mussels every year. They have a huge lobster holding area that they feed with fresh and salt water to keep them happy/slightly sedated before they are cooked for us. The mussels are also locally “cultivated” and were delicous.

Here I am diligently working on my Lobster!

No I haven’t suddenly become a Rascal Flatts fan! But 40km into the 120km stretch of NB 108 (New Brunswick 108 East) that phrase came into my mind. Why? Because it is quite possibly the worst stretch of highway we have ever been directed to drive by any maps application ever. Not counting the horrible dike road incident at Lake Chilcot Arkansas in 2021. That was clearly not a highway. The first warning was that there was no gas or service for 120km. The next bad sign was that the speed limit was 80km/h but we couldn’t drive more than about 50! The road was broken! When Jane posted on the RV group about our experience this was the reply.

Who or what gave you the option of taking the 108? When it was called the Renous shortcut way back when, that road was take at your own risk, things have not changed.

The road was broken for miles and miles.

But God bless it!! it was beautiful. And totally devoid of cell service!

Our stomachs (and bladders) were churning from the bumps so badly that we stopped at the first gas station 1.7 km from the end of the road. But their network was down. So gas was cash only. Ummm we have some US$ but very few loonies. Thankfully gas (at least petrol) was not the point of the stop. So we moved on. Never have we been so happy to get on a smooth highway!

And we arrived at the Kouchibouguac campground on Saint-Louis Lagoon on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Eight hours after our six hour drive started. But… this is why we call it an adventure! You never know what you are going to encounter…

Our first order of business after getting the camper settled, by which I mean picking up everything that was strewn all over the floor. Everything from an entire box of frozen meat from the freezer to cans of soda and ice trays. What a mess. After getting it all cleaned up we decided to walk down the trail toward Kelly’s beach… Unfortunately we discovered that the bridge to the beach had been removed for the season! Grrrr 2.2 km of constant mosquitos for nothing! Adventure! We turned around and headed back to the camper.

Life is not so bad! Bless the Broken Road.

I’ve missed a couple of days along the way, so with today being a “day of rest” I thought I could catch us up.

Corning

This is going way back, but I did forget to write about our trip to the Corning Museum of Glass. Very very cool. We are not “museum people” but this was fun, educational, interesting, interactive, … Who knew there was so much different science and engineering behind “glass!” We started with a glass etching experience and then went to the hot shop to see them blow a huge glass light fixture. If you have never seen a glass blowing demonstration you really should. Mathematics, Physics, Art, Engineering, it’s all there.

Here is Jane etching her glass. I made a Runestone glass!

Montreal

We drove from Stowe to Montreal, beautiful scenery but we are still too early for the change in color. We knew that going in that we were likely too early for some places and would be too late for others by the time we were finished. But it was pretty. Kind of funny crossing the border. I know it’s no joke, But kind of odd to the average tourist. Do you have any firearms? No. Do you own any firearms? No. Do you have any defensive weapons… like pepper spray or a hunting knife? Ummm no. Does the hatchet for splitting wood count? What about my chef’s knife? We are towing a camper after all. Then there were the questions about alcohol… Of course we have some wine in the camper. Are you visiting anyone? No. Do you know anyone? No. Will you meet anyone? Ummm, I imagine we might meet people while we are camping or eating out… it’s hard to not meet people.

My vision of Montreal was influenced way to much by the Canada pavilion at EPCOT. It was nice, but felt more big city than anything, even in old town. It was cool to see the city at sunset, especially the Olympic stadium in the distance.

In the morning we took a short bike ride, and got an even better view. A very cool structure.

Maybe the oddest thing we saw was a driver missing the corner and plowing into the retaining wall right on the edge of a restaurant. People pulled out their phones and started filming, then the driver and the passenger tried to switch places. It was hard to tell what was going on, and we had to catch our ferry so we didn’t wait until the police came.

Just before we fell asleep Jane said “I smell skunk”. Yes, there it was the distinct smell of skunk. Was there a skunk under the camper? Did one of the stray cats around the campground get into it with a skunk and was now lurking around our campsite? Should I go out into the dark and try to figure it out? In the words of Marlin Perkins “I’ll stay safely in the camper” We will never know, the smell was gone in the morning.

Quebec City

Quebec city definitely had more of an old European vibe to it! We enjoyed our walk, even if it did involve over 310 stairs! We walked and wandered and then enjoyed a wonderful Italian dinner in the upper town. After dinner we made our way back through the streets toward the ferry.

And enjoyed the view of Château Frontenac as we headed across the river.

Today is mostly a day of rest, doing laundry and catching up on some work… But we did get in a 26 mile ride along the river this afternoon.

You can see Château Frontenac in the daylight along with a couple of cruise ships. We also saw the last bridge across the river as we head toward the ocean.

The plan for tonight is to relax, have a some burgers at our campsite, and prepare for a long (8 hour) drive tomorrow to New Brunswick. We will be happy to get back to a province where English is the dominant language! It has been so long since we have visited a country where we do not speak the accepted/dominant language. Of course the Canadians are very welcoming, friendly, nice, and do their best to understand us. Especially if we try to greet them in French or say a few words. TIL that when you are biking in Quebec you can’t expect people to understand “on your left” instead one should say “à ta gauche” I’m not sure “on your left” is a universal bike thing, or whether I’m just really bad ad saying it, but it did not get the normal response!

A lot of driving today, but still some great scenery!

We started this morning with a hike from the upper to middle to lower falls at Letchworth State Park, and ended with the Gorge hike at Watkins Glenn. What a great day of waterfalls!

I have already had to rethink my opinion of New York State, which is totally based on my experience with New York City and “New Yorkers”. The rural parts of New York are amazing!

We spent last night at Letchworth state park, which claims to be the number one state park in the USA. I don’t know how you can possibly back up such a claim, but as the pundits say, Letchworth belongs in the conversation! Beautiful, well kept, great hiking options …

I don’t think our neighbors would vote for it… When we pulled into our loop and saw the water station we pulled over… Before we got out of the truck a guy on a bike pulled up to tell us “some guy just jack-knifed his camper, and is blocking the road. You might want to take your time! So we did, and even then the poor couple was no closer to a solution. They had unhooked their truck from the camper but were trying to reconnect in completely the wrong way! Husband and wife were barely talking to each other. But they did offer to move so that we could try to get around. We did, and we were all settled before they got into their site.

We had not thought to take anything out of the freezer for dinner, so we took out a couple of stakes and I put them in the sous vide while we headed to Eddy’s to watch the sunset! It was very nice with a great view of the river gorge and the sun disappearing behind the bluffs!

The morning was quite cool, we had to turn on the heat for a few minutes to take the chill out of the air. We dressed in layers and headed out towards middle and upper falls. Our plan was to hike from there down to the lower falls and back, about a 4 mile hike.

It was a great morning for a hike. There was almost nobody else on the trail. We did meet a couple from Ohio who had just come from Watkins Glen, so they had good advice for us on how to do the gorge hike.

After showers and some tacos for lunch we packed up camp and headed for Watkins Glen. It was just a two hour drive, and on much better roads than the route we took to Letchworth!!

The campground sits high above the village of Watkins Glen, and the gorge hike starts way down low. So we descended and then started the long trek back upwards. But it was spectacular.

After all of that hiking and climbing we were definitely hungry and sleepy campers. We hooked up our fire pit, and sat around the fire with some warmed up pasta and wine and just relaxed. By bedtime a light rain had started so we had that sound to put us to sleep for the night.